Turns out, I don’t have enough time to take on resoling at the moment!

 

I also want to spend more time training with Scotty Dog to perfect my rand repair skills.

 

I’m not sure when that will happen, but if you use the “Notify Me” button, you’ll be the first to know when I’m ready.

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WHAT IS A RESOLE?

A traditional climbing shoe resole usually means replacing the front half of the sole (around the ball of your foot) with either the same or a different rubber of your choice. In most cases, only a half-sole or outsole replacement is needed—no need for a full resole.

WHY RESOLE?
HOW MANY RESOLES CAN I GET BEFORE NEEDING A RAND REPAIR?
HOW DO I KNOW IF I NEED A RESOLE?
WHAT IS A RAND?
HOW CAN I TELL IF I NEED A RAND REPAIR?

Want to check your rands yourself? Look for holes, creases, or dents, and try pressing from the ball of your foot along the inside and outside edges. Even if the rand looks fine, a soft spot around the toe usually means it needs a repair. You could skip it, but if your rand is weak and you only resole the sole, it might blow out and make your new soles useless.

CAN YOU REPAIR JUST THE RAND?

Nope. The sole has to be removed to repair the rand, so if your rand needs fixing, you’ll need a resole too. That’s why it’s not a good idea to put fresh, sticky rubber on worn-out rands—if the rand blows out, you’ll be stuck paying for another resole sooner than you’d like.

CAN YOU RESOLE WITH A DAMAGED RAND?

Nope. Resoling over a worn-out rand is a waste of money and weakens the structure of your shoe. Any reputable resoler wouldn’t recommend it.

CAN I CHOOSE TO HAVE A FULL RESOLE?

If you need or want a full sole replacement, we can do it upon request. However, if a climbing shoe needs a full resole, it’s usually a sign that the shoes are at or near the end of their lifespan.

WHICH RUBBER?

Great question! You might think thinner rubber wears out faster, so going for the thickest option is best—but durability actually depends more on the rubber compound than just the thickness. It also depends on what you want from your shoes. Thicker rubber is great for beginner-to-intermediate climbers, gym training, all-day comfort, and crack climbing. But it also reduces sensitivity, which is why thinner rubber is often preferred for precise face climbing and smearing. In the end, it’s all about personal preference. If you’re unsure, the safest bet is to stick with the factory-applied rubber on your shoes if possible—or shoot us an email, and I’ll help you decide, or check out this PAGE

WILL MY SHOES STILL FIT THE SAME, OR BE TIGHTER?

No need to worry—your shoes will come back with the same familiar, worn-in feel, if not even better! When climbing shoes are made, they’re produced in batches of lefts and rights before being paired up. Even though manufacturers aim for consistency, there can be slight variations from the first shoe in a batch to the last. Because of this—and the fact that every foot is different—I don’t use presses or heavy machinery to rebuild your shoes. Presses can put unnecessary stress on stitching and components, sometimes distorting the shape and making shoes feel tighter. Instead, we take a passive rebuilding approach, treating each shoe as an individual to ensure they come back fitting just like the last time you wore them!

WILL RESOLING MY SHOES BE AS GOOD A QUALITY AS NEW?

Yes! We offer a 3-month guarantee from the date you receive your resole. If there’s a workmanship issue, we’ll redo the resole for free. That said, while we do our best to ensure top-quality control, just like with new shoes, occasional human errors, environmental factors, or unexpected issues can happen. If you run into a problem, just reach out—we’ll handle it professionally and as quickly as possible!

HOW DO I GET MY SHOES TO UNCARVED BLOCK?

Please undo all velcro straps or loosen laces as much as you can, then put your shoes into a parcel bag/box and pop them in the mail to ‘Uncarved Resoles, 11 Marsh Street, Unit 4, Armidale NSW, 2350. Write your Order number on the outside of the bag/box in large print.

DO YOU OFFER PREMIUM CUSTOM RESOLES?
HOW CAN I CARE FOR MY SHOES BETTER?

First things first—accept that rock shoes will wear out and will get stinky. There’s no avoiding resoles or funky-smelling shoes. BUT you can do a few things to extend their life:

 

CLIMBING SHOES DO NOT LIKE HEAT. Avoid leaving them in your car, in the sun, or anywhere hot for long periods. The adhesives in climbing shoes are heat-sensitive, and some models are more prone to de-lamination when exposed to high temperatures.

KEEP YOUR SOLES CLEAN. Dirt and grit on your soles make them less effective and wear them out faster. Try taking your shoes off between climbs and avoid walking around in them more than necessary.

AIR THEM OUT.  Don’t shove them into the bottom of your pack next to last week’s forgotten banana peel. You can’t keep them stink-free forever, but giving them some TLC helps. Let them air out at home in a moderately warm spot (out of direct sunlight) to dry. Oxygen and UV exposure are the simplest ways to manage smelly bacteria.

DO NOT PUT THEM IN THE WASHING MACHINE. Sure, they’ll be clean—but they’ll probably shrink and end up fitting weird. Not worth it!
WHEN YOUR SHOES GET WET...
Loosely pack newspaper into your shoes to absorb moisture and help them keep their shape while drying. If they’re really damp, you might need to swap out the paper a few times until they’re fully dry. Once that’s done, place them in a moderately warm spot, but out of direct sunlight. DO NOT put them near a heater or—believe it or not—in the oven unless you’re looking to ruin your shoes before your next project! This is also a great habit after a sweaty day at the crag. It helps maintain the fit of your shoes and minimizes odor.

 

 

 

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